Most of the stained countertops we're called to repair in Ottawa would have been fine if they had been sealed in October. Our heating season pulls indoor humidity below 25% for months at a stretch, and dry air is brutal on the impregnating sealers that protect porous stone. A counter that felt fully sealed in September can be drinking up red wine like a paper towel by February.

The good news is that re-sealing is a fifteen-minute job you can do yourself, and doing it once before the heating kicks on saves you the headache of a permanent stain — and a re-seal in spring. Here is how Ottawa homeowners should handle granite and marble sealing through the winter, with a step-by-step you can follow tonight.

Why Ottawa winters are harder on sealers

Stone sealers (the kind used by professional fabricators — not the spray-on grocery-store products) are penetrating chemistries that bond into the stone's micro-pores. They rely on a small amount of ambient moisture to maintain elasticity. When indoor humidity drops below 30%, the sealer film begins to micro-crack. The cracks are invisible to the eye but allow water-based stains (coffee, wine, broth) to migrate into the stone and discolour it.

In Toronto or Vancouver, where indoor winter humidity rarely falls below 35–40%, the same sealer lasts a full year between treatments. In Ottawa, it often won't.

Which stones need sealing (and which don't)

The water test (how to know you need to re-seal)

Sprinkle a teaspoon of water on the part of your countertop that sees the most use — usually beside the sink, or where you set down a cutting board. Wait fifteen minutes, then wipe it off and look at the stone underneath.

"Sealer is invisible when it's working and invisible when it's failed. The water test is how you make the difference visible."

Step-by-step: sealing a granite or marble countertop

You'll need: a quality impregnating sealer (we recommend Stone Pro or Dry-Treat Stain-Proof for Ottawa kitchens — both available at local stone supply shops), a clean lint-free cloth, and roughly fifteen minutes of uninterrupted counter time.

  1. Clear the counter completely. Knife blocks, fruit bowls, everything. The sealer can't bond where it can't reach.
  2. Clean with a pH-neutral stone cleaner (not vinegar, not bleach — both damage the stone). Let it dry fully — at least one hour.
  3. Pour a small puddle of sealer onto a small section (about a square metre at a time). Spread it evenly with a clean cloth, working in overlapping circles.
  4. Let it sit for 10 minutes. The sealer should stay wet on the surface — if it absorbs quickly in spots, apply a second coat to those areas.
  5. Wipe off all excess with a dry cloth. Buff in circles until the surface looks dry and even. Sealer left on the surface will leave a hazy film.
  6. Wait six hours before using the counter. No water, no spills, no setting things down. Overnight is safer.

What if you've already stained it?

If a stain has already set in, sealing won't remove it — it'll just trap it. Most stains can be drawn back out with a poultice (a paste applied for 24–48 hours that absorbs the stain back upward), but the specifics depend on what caused the stain. Send us a photo and we'll tell you whether it's a poultice job or whether you should leave it alone — some "stains" on marble are actually etches, which sit below the surface and need re-polishing.

When to call us instead

Re-sealing is the easiest stone care task — but if your counter has chips, a hairline crack, or visible dullness along the edge, those need professional repair. Send a photo and we'll tell you whether it's a service call or something a polishing pass can fix on-site.